Harshal Shah –
The Telegraph, 24th April 2010
I was with a rather talkative friend of mine the other day, scoffing a dish that turned out to be more spicy than sweet-and-sour, when she asked about a wine pairing with that dish. My mouth was otherwise occupied at the time but it did get me thinking.
There are various styles of wine that could match spicy food — a fruity rosé from Chile or Australia would be adequate, as would Beaujolais. But a choice that may not be immediately apparent is Viognier, the wonderfully perfumed, seductive wine whose home is the tiny commune of Condrieu in the Rhône Valley in Southern France.
I’ve had a bit of a love affair with Viognier (vee-yon-yay) ever since I was a
sommelier in Sydney. I found that the wine was one of the best matches to Indian cuisine. It offers the perfect alternative to lovers of rich, buttery Chardonnay, or to those who prefer crisp, acidic Sauvignon Blanc. While the trend has been a move to Pinot Grigio and Riesling, sommeliers around the world seem to be making room for Viogniers on their wine lists too.
This is because the wine offers the weight and suppleness of
Chardonnay without the oak, while offering the refreshment of Sauvignon or
Riesling without the searing acidity. The
aroma profile can be anything from heady orange blossom and flowers to apricots and ripe papaya. A young Viognier can also have a hint of spice, musk and honeysuckle. It’s a difficult grape to grow, but even a little effort in the vineyard can yield a superb wine.
As a result, not all Viogniers are expensive; some impressive examples coming out of Australia, California and even Southern France don’t break the bank. Viogniers have an ability to age and can be enjoyed for many years after bottling, provided they are well-stored. In my opinion, Viognier is one of the best wines to drink with Indian cuisine, especially anything involving chicken and creamy, nutty sauces (like kormas) and rich seafood like lobster or South Indian fish curries.
There are many Viogniers entering India and some are even produced here.
Check out these three examples:
2007 Le Petit Jaboulet
From Paul Jaboulet Aîé of Vin de Pays (Southern France), this is a good-value wine from a renowned Rhône producer. It’s made in 100 per cent stainless steel, so it remains light and refreshing. The nose is typical Viognier: white peaches with flowers and musk. On the palate, the wine is delicate with acidity and ‘brightness’ — it reminds me of a summer’s day in a flower garden. A slight weight and texture in the mouth lends this wine to seafood (Rs 3,000 or less).
2008 Yalumba ‘Y’ Series Viognier
From South Australia’s Eden Valley, this is undoubtedly one of the best value
white wines in Australia and widely available in India. Never pay more than Rs 3,000 for it here. This wine sees a little bit of oak, which gives some vanilla notes on the nose. Apricots, ripe papaya and brown spice are there too. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a softness yet richness of flavour. Look for ripe nectarines, orange-peel and apricots. Ideal with mild Indian curries.
2009 Sula ‘Dindori Reserve’ Viognier
Ever since I first tasted this wine, I have been convinced that this is one of the best
white wines produced in India. Coming from Maharashtra’s Nasik Valley, you’d be hard-pressed to find a cleaner, varietally sound example. The winemaker leaves a little bit of sugar behind in the wine so it’s not completely dry. Nevertheless, the wine tastes like Viognier — apricots, lychees and even some minerality. A light to medium-bodied style that should be served chilled and enjoyed as an apèritif or with very delicate seafood. (Rs 700 or less in Maharashtra only).